VOYAGE

From Arabesque to Zellige: Tiles Around the World

Or – My Tile Obsession

Tiles – those joyful squares of glazed ceramic, stone, glass, and clay – have been a design medium of choice around the world for centuries. From the tranquil blues and whites that typify Holland’s delftware and Portugal’s azulejo to the colorful geometry of Persian tiles and Moroccan zellige, tilework is an integral piece of virtually every regional architectural and aesthetic style. I, sharing this collective cultural appreciation for all-things tiled, delight in their cheery ornamentation of façades, ceilings, and floors wherever I go. In the following post, I’ll share my tile obsession with photographs from my travels in California, Marrakesh, and Barcelona with some detours in between.

Hearst Castle, San Simeon, California

My boyfriend and I first visited this sprawling estate last April, and he’s been ruined for house museums ever since. We have since toured Hudson Valley mansions, Frank Lloyd Wright homes, and Barcelona Moderniste masterpieces, and he’s just not that impressed. Admittedly, the cathedral-like castle on a hill overlooking the California coastline, with its mix of Spanish Colonial and Mediterranean Revival styles and collection of late-medieval European art and furniture, is quite magnificent. Built by pioneering architect Julia Morgan (1919 to 1947) for media tycoon William Randolph Hearst, the main house and its three guest “cottages” offer visitors a glimpse of old Hollywood opulence and views of the Pacific Ocean – on sunny days, at least. And, of course, there are tiles galore.

Casa del Monte, one of the guest cottages at the Hearst Castle
Casa del Monte
Sculptures of the goddess Sekhmet
The Casa del Sol guest cottage overlooks a tiled patio
The cleanest these shoes have ever been
Tile-lined pathway through the gardens
The Neptune Pool
Persian tiles over a doorway in Hearst Castle
The indoor Roman Pool
Eight statues of Roman gods, goddesses, and heroes line the pool
Floor to ceiling one-inch square glass mosaic tiles called smalti decorate the space

In other California destinations…

Spanish Colonial influences are apparent throughout much of Californian architecture and design. In Palm Springs, courtyard fountains and stucco tiled roofs punctuate the cool mid-century vibe of the desert resort town. Meanwhile, the Getty Villa outside of Los Angeles, constructed in the ordered fashion of an ancient Roman country manor, flashes sophisticated affluence in its marble tiled floors and colonnaded walkways.

A tile courtyard fountain in Palm Springs
The Andalusian Court Hotel in Palm Springs
The Korakia Pensione Hotel in Palm Springs
Graphic floor tiles at the Azúcar Restaurant, Palm Springs
Not afraid of patterns at the Purple Palm Restaurant, Palm Springs
Mosaic fountain in the East Garden of the Getty Villa in Malibu
The Outer Peristyle Garden at the Getty
Inlaid marble floor at the Getty
Spiral staircase at the Santa Barbara County Courthouse
Tile floor detailing at the Santa Barbara County Courthouse

Miscellaneous USA

Far from being the exclusive purview of California, Mediterranean and Moorish influences extend their reach east, from arid Sedona to the pastoral Hudson Valley. The following are but a few examples of lovely tilework beyond the Golden State.

Tiled walls at the Tlaquepaque Arts & Shopping Village in Sedona, Arizona
Courtyard fountain at the Tlaquepaque Arts & Shopping Village
Tiled staircase at Tlaquepaque
Exterior of the Olana historic estate in Hudson, New York
Olana façade

Marrakech, a.k.a. A series of doorways

Gorgeous, vibrant tile. Marrakech is fairly built out of it. Everywhere you look is geometric zellige tilework, forming rosettes of blues, greens, and yellows on ceilings, floors, pools, and fountains. Adding to the ornate splendor are the nearly-as ubiquitous carved wooden doors and Moorish arches decorated with intricate arabesques and Arabic calligraphy tiles.

The Saadian Tombs house sepulchers and mausoleums dating from the Saadian dynasty (1524 to 1659)
The Saadian Tombs
The historical site Ben Youssef Madrasa was once an Islamic College
The main courtyard is composed of three naves bordered by marble pillars with ornamental motifs of pine cones and palms as well as walls decorated with Islamic calligraphy and zellige tiles
Tile detail at the Ben Youssef Madrasa
Les Bains de Marrakech entrance
Jardin Majorelle

Mosaic Barcelona

I recently wrote a piece on the Catalan Modernism style in Barcelona but had to sneak in a few more photos here, as the city is teeming with both tilework and mosaics. And for the record, there is a difference. Mosaics differ from tiles in that they typically form a cohesive form or work of art. Tesserae, or small pieces (typically one inch or less) of stone, glass, or other materials, are pieced together to form an image adorning walls, floors, and other surfaces, as well as objects and structures in the manner of some of the Modernisme-style mosaics that we’ll see here.

A butterfly mosaic on the Casa Lleó Morera
View of Barcelona from the Plaça de la Natura in Gaudí’s Park Güell
View of the porter’s lodge pavilions, a.k.a. the gingerbread houses, in Park Güell
Closeup of mosaics on a wall in Park Güell
Mosaic wall
Mosaic detail #1
Mosaic detail #2
Tiles on Casa Amatller (left) and mosaics on Casa Batlló (right)
Iridescent tiles line a mushroom-shaped fireplace in Casa Batlló
Tiled inner atrium of Casa Batlló
Inner atrium
Atrium window
Mosaic rooftop of Casa Batlló
Casa Vicens – The marigold tiles that cover the façade were inspired by flowers growing around the building site
A marble fountain is the focal point on an enclosed porch
More marigold tiles encase the porch
The tiled smoking room of Casa Vicens
The bathroom at Casa Vicens incorporates the same marigold tiles that ornament the façade
Casa de les Punxes entryway
Marble tile floor at the Cotton House Hotel
Black and white checkered tiles in the Cotton House Hotel

Published by Olivia

Hello, Olivia here. I'm a writer and consultant with a love for experiencing new places, spaces, and tastes, and a penchant for documenting them through writing and photography. I have a BA in International Studies and spent the first three years of my post-undergrad life working in New York City (the dream). I also lived abroad in London and Paris while pursuing a graduate degree and working as an au pair for a French family (despite my horrible French). I'm currently based in the Portland, Oregon, area where I live with my partner and our two cats, Odin and Freya, and our tripawd border collie mix, Fenrir.

One thought on “From Arabesque to Zellige: Tiles Around the World”

  1. Brenda Klaproth says:

    What a wonderful tour. Thanks,

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